Unit 4 Dyeing&Printing&Finishing of Textiles（纺织品染整）
Dyeing of TextiIes（纺织品染色）
1.Type of Dyes
Dyeing is the process of applying color to textile materials in the form of dyestuffs（dyes）under certain conditions（Fig. 1.40）.Requirements for the dyeing process can be summed up as, color fastness of dyed products to various agencies is desirable, color of dyed products must be even with-out defects, and quality of dyed products can meet certain ecological environmental protection stand-ards.
Fig.1.40 Schematic illustration of dyeing
The various natural and man-made fibers vary in their affinity or capacity to take dyestuff due to their different physical and chemical composition. Therefore, different types of dyes have been devel-oped to suit particular types of fibers.In term of origin, dyes can be classified into natural dyes（such as tyrian purple and indigo）and synthetic dyes.Although natural dyes are environmentally friendly, they are difficult to be obtained and hard to be applied.Furthermore, they provide poor fastness and color brilliance, and limited color range.Herein, synthetic dyes have almost replaced natural dyes for they can provide a wider, clearer and brighter range of colors.Synthetic dyes are also cheaper and easier to be applied than natural dyes.Dyes also can be classified by both chemical types and meth-ods of utilization.Major classes of dyes classified according to method of utilization and their applica-ble fibers are shown in Tab.1.13.
Tab. 1.13 Major cIasses of dyes cIassified according to method of utiIization and their appIicabIe fibers
2.Dyeing Methods
Dyeing methods can be classified by both forms of textiles as well as color application manners（Tab. 1.14）.
Tab. 1.14 CIassification of dyeing methods
Continued
Continued
Continued
3.Color Fastness of Dyes
Color fastness of dyes is very important to evaluate the quality of the dyed product, which refers to its ability to retain the original color or to resist fading away of the color when the dyed product is exposed to some external situations. Tests of color fastness of dyes for determining whether the textile is resist to various factors mainly include washing fastness, perspiration fastness, rubbing fastness, sunlight fastness, bleaching fastness, ironing fastness and so on.
Printing of TextiIes（纺织品印花）
Printing is the process of producing colored patterns on fabrics or garments by using dyes or pig-ments（Fig. 1.41）.Printing is a localized coloration of textile materials.Each color applied in a printing process must be applied in a separate step or position on the printing machine.Printing meth-ods can be classified by processing technics and printing machines（Tab.1.15）.
Fig.1.41 Printed woven fabrics and man′s knitted T-shirt
Tab. 1.15 CIassification of printing methods
Continued
Continued
Continued
Finishing of Fabrics（纺织品后整理）
Before reaching the consumer market, cloth must undergo at least one and usually several finish-ing processes. The purpose of these finishes is to impart specific properties to the cloth to make it more appealing to the consumer.The end result may be improved appearance, better performance, increased durability, resistance to insects, molds and fungi, improved safety or protection for the us-er, the addition of color and design, or simply the preparation of the cloth for further finishing proces-ses.Various finishing methods fall into two main categories according to their purposes（Tab.1.16）.However, labels of textile products generally don′t mention what kinds of finishes have been applied on them.
Tab. 1.16 CIassification of finishing methods
Continued
Vocabulary
sum up 合计，总结，概括
affinity 亲和性
capacity 容量，性能
tyrian purple 泰尔红紫
indigo 靛蓝
brilliance（颜色）鲜明、绚丽
utilization 利用，使用
penetration 渗透，穿透
enable to 使能够
batch 一批
immerse into 浸入，浸没
squeeze out 挤出，轧出
fade away 消退，消失
expose 暴露
pigment 颜料
undergo 经历，遭受
appeal to 对……有吸引力
insect 昆虫
mold 霉
fungi 真菌
Professional Vocabulary
dyestuff 染料
color fastness 色牢度
direct dyes 直接染料
reactive dyes 活性染料
vat dyes 还原染料
sulfur dye 硫化染料
acid dyes 酸性染料
disperse dyes 分散染料
cationic dyes 阳离子染料
dope dyeing 原液染色
polymer chips 聚合物切片
top dyeing 毛条染色
piece dyeing 匹染
solid color 纯色
union dyeing 混纺交织物染色
cross dyeing 交染
product dyeing 成品染色
dip dyeing 浸染
additives 助剂
pad dyeing 轧染
tie dyeing 扎染
space dyeing 段染
washing fastness 耐洗牢度
perspiration fastness 耐汗渍牢度
rubbing fastness 耐摩擦牢度
sunlight fastness 耐日晒牢度
bleaching fastness 耐漂牢度
ironing fastness 耐熨烫牢度
direct printing 直接印花
printing paste 印花色浆
discharge printing 拔染印花
gound dye 地色染料
prevent printing 防染印花
resist agent 防染剂
roller printing 滚筒印花
flat/platescreen printing 平网印花
rotary screen printing 圆网印花
transfer printing 转移印花
ink-jet printing 喷墨印花
desizing 退浆
color fixing 固色
stentering finish 拉幅整理
hot setting finish 热定形整理
calendering finish 轧光整理
peach finish 磨毛整理
softening finish 柔软整理
stiffening finish 硬挺整理
mercerizing finish 丝光整理
fleece finish 起绒整理
creping finish 起绉整理
water-wash finish 水洗整理
sand-wash finish 砂洗整理
durable press finish 免烫整理
water-proof finish 防水整理
water-repellent finish 拒水整理
oil-repellent finish 拒油整理
flame retardant finish 阻燃整理
anti-static finish 抗静电整理
anti-pilling finish 抗起球整理
anti-shrinking finish 防缩整理
anti-wrinkle finish 抗皱整理
anti-fungal finish 抗真菌整理
anti-bacterial finish 抗菌整理
stain resistant finish 防污整理
Translation Practice
1.Yarn Dyed Antistatic Fabric for Garments, Shoes and Trousers（Fig.1.42）
Fig.1.42 Yarn dyed anti static fabrics
（1）Quick Details
（2）Care Instruction
The carbon filament nylon used in our anti-static fabrics as the conductive fiber is sensitive to heat, alkali, acids, softeners and bleach. In order to keep the anti-static properties, please follow our recommended instructions：
（a）Wash in warm water with a temperature no higher than 40℃.
（b）In case of removing stubborn stains, strong liquid detergents can be used as long as they do not contain any chlorine bleach.
（c）Do not bleach. Do not use alkali, acid or fabric softeners.Do not dry clean.
（d）Usually, do not iron, since a special additive is used during the finishing process. Please i-ron at medium temperature if it is needed.
2.The Most Popular Silk Scarf with Superior Quality（Fig.1.43）
Fig.1.43 Silk scarves
Quick Details
Inner 1 pc（piece）/polybag or 1 pc/gift box, out 100/200/400 pcs per ctn（carton），other package as customer required.
3.300 D×600 D 100%Polyester Oxford Fabric（Fig.1.44）
Fig.1.44 Polyester oxford fabric
（1）Quick Details
（2）Packaging&Delivery
Packaging Details：roll packing or bale packing inside and carton box packing outside.
Delivery Details：15～20 days after deposit receipt and lab dips or strike off confirmed.
Payment：the T/T or L/C in sight.
（3）Company Introduction
Established in 2011，Peifeng textile is a manufacturing and trading company in polyester and ny-lon fabrics. Our products have such functions as water-proof, flame retardant, wind-proof, low temperature resistant, anti-static, UV resistant, anti-bacterial, moisture absorption, quickly dry, breathable and so on.Our products can be widely used in cold protective clothing, sports casual clothing, outdoor wear, parachute and tent, industrial fabric, luggage and so on.
Notes
cuttable width：可裁幅宽，即不算两侧布边宽度在内的织物幅宽。
fabric density/count：100 T指织物经纬密度约为100根/英寸（每平方英寸里经纱和纬纱的根数之和）。
P/D, W/R：piece dye匹染，water repellent拒水。
lab dip：烧杯样，即染色面料做大货之前确认颜色的小样，在烧杯中进行染色以降低打样成本。
strike off：印花小样，即印花面料做大货之前确认花型的小样。