Unit 3　Textile Fabrics（纺织织物）

TextiIe Fabrics and Their Structures and Specifications

（织物及其结构与分类）

Fabrics are usually defined as soft materials made from fibers and yarns with desired mechanical properties and thickness, which also are generally referred to as textiles. Fabrics are traditionally con-sidered as any thin, flexible and flat materials, most of which are woven, knitted from yarns, or are bonded directly from fibers.Fabrics are mainly classified by the producing methods, and can be clas-sified into three types.They are woven fabrics, knitted fabrics and nonwoven fabrics（Fig.1.20）.Despite different structural characteristics of woven fabrics and knitted fabrics, both of them can be classified by raw material composition, fabric specification and dyeing and printing methods（Tab.1.6）.As a kind of textiles consist of fiber webs, nonwoven fabrics are always classified by manufacturing methods.Fabrics can be used as clothing materials, decorative（home textile）materi-als and industrial textile materials.

Tab. 1.6　CIassification of fabrics

Continued

1.Woven Fabrics

Woven fabrics（Fig. 1.21）are made by interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles to each other on a weaving machine.The lengthwise yarns are called warp yarns or ends, while the widthwise yarns are called weft yarns, filling yarns or picks.The lengthwise edge of the fabric is selvage, which is very important for producing fabrics with improved appearance and quality, and desired width.How-ever, yarns must go through the weaving preparation processes before weaving on a machine.The preparation of warp yarns for weaving consists of four processes as shown in Tab.1.7.Then, the wea-ving of woven fabrics is done on a machine called a loom.Fig.1.22 is a simplified sketch of the loom.

Tab. 1.7　Preparation of warp yarns for weaving

Continued

In order to interlace warp and weft yarns to produce fabrics on a loom, five motions are required for weaving to be performed. The following is a brief description of each：

（1）Shedding—separating the warp yarns into an upper and a lower layer to form a shed for the weft yarns to pass through.

（2）Picking—putting a filling yarn in the shed and passing it across the loom.

（3）Beating-up—pushing every loose filling yarn（pick）into the cloth fell by the reed.

（4）Let-off—feeding the warp yarn to the weaving area at required rate and under uniform ten-sion by unwinding it from the weaver′s beam at the back of the loom.

（5）Take-up—withdrawing the already woven fabric from the weaving area at proper rate and then winding it onto the cloth beam at the front of the loom.

Looms can be divided into various types according to different classification methods and fall into two main classes based upon the methods of filling insertion（Tab. 1.8）.Necessary spare parts of projectile looms, rapier looms and air jet looms that distinguish them from traditional looms are shown in Fig.1.23～Fig.1.27.

Tab. 1.8　CIassification of Iooms based upon the methods of fiIIing insertion

Warp yarns and weft yarns interlace on the loom according to the fabric weave. The repeat is the smallest unit of the weave, which, when repeated, will produce the design required in the fabric.There are three basic weaves, namely, plain weave, twill weave and satin weave.All other weaves are a variation or a combination of these weaves.The desired effect must be taken into account before the design of weave for a fabric, including luster, strength, pattern, color effect and cost.The classi-fication and names of woven fabrics vary with weaves used in the fabric and processing systems em-ployed to produce the fabric（Tab.1.9）.

Tab. 1.9　CIassification of woven fabrics

Continued

Continued

A woven fabric is described by its length, width, fabric count, fabric weight, yarn size and fabric defects. This information is important to fabric manufactures for it provides a basis for price comparison and for determination of end uses.General specification parameters of woven fabrics are listed in Tab.1.10.

Tab. 1.10　Specification parameters of woven fabrics

Continued

2.Knitted Fabrics

Knitted fabrics（Fig. 1.28）are made by the intermeshing of loops of a single set of yarns.Knit-ted fabrics can be classified into warp knitted fabrics and weft knitted fabrics.For warp knitted fab-rics, yarns are fed along the warp direction and zigzag along the length of the fabric, to form columns（wales）of loops.For weft knitted fabrics, a single yarn is fed along the weft direction and forms hori-zontal rows（courses）of loops along the width of the fabric.Compared with woven fabrics, knitted fabrics have advantages of good stretchability and extension, good draping property, good recovery from wrinkling and folding, high tearing strength, and good air permeability.Besides, weft knits can be shaped during the knitting process by the full fashioning technique.However, knitted fabrics shown bad dimensional stability, are easily to unravel when snagged or pulled out and to pilling, and

tend to curl when cut. Warp knitted fabrics and weft knitted fabrics also can be classified by stitches used in them.The classifications of stitches used in warp knitted fabrics and weft knitted fabrics are shown in Tab.1.11.Warp knitted fabrics of major importance are tricot and raschel if classified ac-cording to the type of equipment used and special characteristics of the resulting fabrics.Compared with weft knits, warp knits are tighter, have less stretch, and are less bulky.Moreover, warp knits have better dimensional stability, greater resistance to snagging, raveling, running and abrasion, as well as higher strength.

Tab. 1.11　CIassifications of stitches used in warp knitted fabrics and weft knitted fabrics

Jersey fabrics are widely used for sweater, underwear, hosiery, dress and sport shirt（Fig. 1.29）.Rib fabrics are suitable for collar, cuff, elastic sweater or pants and skirt（Fig.1.30）.Purl knits are used for sweater, scarf but not suitable for underwear because of their fuzzy surface（Fig.1.31）.

3.Nonwoven Fabrics

Nonwoven fabrics are sheet or web structures made by directly bonding fibers, yarns, or fila-ments together through mechanical, chemical or thermal methods. Nonwoven fabrics can be made as either disposable or durable goods.Durable nonwovens are manufactured for applications in apparel inter-linings, carpet backings, automobile headliners, road underlayments and so on.Disposable nonwovens are manufactured with the intention of being thrown away after a single or limited number of applications.Examples include diapers, medical dressings, household wipes, filters and so on.Examples of applications of nonwoven fabrics are shown in Fig.1.32.The basic steps in manufactur-ing nonwoven fabrics include preparation of the fiber, web formation, web bonding and drying, and curing.There are three major manufacturing methods to form webs.They are dry laid, wet laid and polymer laid.With the dry laid system, the fabric structure is formed by having the fibers manipula-ted in a dry state.With the wet laid system, the fabric structure is formed by having the fibers manip-ulated in a wet state.With the polymer laid system, the fabric structure is formed by thermoplastic fibers upon being extruded blown by air onto a collection surface.Two types of nonwovens, spunbond-ed nonwovens and melt-blown nonwovens, are manufactured through polymer laid system.Nonwo-ven fabrics are usually classified according to web bonding methods（Tab.1.12）.

Tab. 1.12　CIassification of nonwovens according to web bonding methods

Vocabulary

despite　尽管，虽然

decorative　装饰的

interlace　使交错，使交织

right angle　直角

simplify　简化

sketch　素描，草图，梗概

strengthen　加强，巩固

enhance　加强，提高，增加

lubricate　润滑

friction　摩擦，冲突

rub　擦，摩擦，按摩

separate　分开，（使）分离

loose　松的，散漫的

withdraw　撤退拿走

insertion　插入

spare parts　备用零件

distinguish……from　区分，分辨

rigid　顽固的，严格的，坚硬的

pattern　图案，花样

employ　使用，利用

diagonal　对角线的，斜线的

comparison　比较，对照

yardages　码数

absence　缺席，缺少

intermesh　相互串套

zigzag　使成之字形

underwear　内衣

hosiery　袜类

collar　衣领

cuff　袖口

fuzzy　毛茸茸的

disposable　一次性的

inter-lining　衬里

carpet backing　地毯背衬

automobile headliner　汽车顶篷

underlayment　垫层

manipulate　操纵，控制

thermoplastic　热塑性的

extrude　挤压出

wardrobe　衣柜

surgical gown　手术衣

adhesive　黏合剂

saturation　浸透，饱和

fusion　熔化

Professional Vocabulary

weave　织造，组织

knit　针织，编织

bond　黏合，固结

woven fabric　机织物

knitted fabric　针织物

nonwoven fabric　非织造布

print　印花

blended fabric　混纺织物

mixed fabrics　交织织物

single fabric　单纱织物

thready fabric　线织物

semi-thready fabric　半线织物

greige　坯布

yarn dyed fabric　色织物

bleach　漂白

warp yarns/ends　经纱

weft yarn/filling yarns/picks　纬纱

selvage　布边

loom　织机

winding　络筒

winder　络筒机

cheese　扁圆形筒子

spool　有边筒子

warping　整经

creel　整经筒子架

beam　轴、经轴、织轴

sectional warping　分批整经

drum warping　分条整经

pattern drum　分条整经大滚筒

sizing　浆纱

size　浆料

drawing-in　穿结经

shedding　开口

shed　梭口

picking　引纬

beating-up　打纬

fell　织口

let-off　送经

unwind　退绕

weaver′s beam　织轴

take-up　卷取

cloth beam　卷布辊

projectile loom　片梭织机

rapier loom　剑杆织机

water jet loom　喷水织机

air jet loom　喷气织机

shuttle　梭子

rigid rapier loom　刚性剑杆织机

plain weave　平纹组织

twill weave　斜纹组织

satin weave　缎纹组织

sateen　纬面缎

fancy weave　小花纹组织，花式组织

rib weave　重平组织

basket weave　方平组织

reinforced twill　加强斜纹组织

curved twill　曲线斜纹

combined twill　复合斜纹

reverse twill　山形斜纹

herringbone twill　破斜纹，人字斜纹

combined weave　联合组织

waffle weave　蜂巢组织

pique weave　凸条组织

crepe weave　绉组织

compound weave　复杂组织

double warp weave　重经组织

double weft weave　重纬组织

double layer weave　双层组织

jacquard weave　大提花组织

plain cloth　平布

cambric　麻纱，细纺细薄布

poplin　府绸

voile　巴里纱

hair cords　麻纱

down-proof fabric　防绒布

indigo chambay　靛蓝青年布

double warp fabric　双经布

single drill　纱斜纹

jean　细斜纹，牛仔布

serge　哔叽

thready gabercord　线华达呢

khaki drill　卡其

one-sided drill　单面卡其

twill satin　直贡

flannelette　绒布

corduroy　灯芯绒

velveteen　平绒

leno and gauze　纱罗织物

oxford　牛津布

seersucker　泡泡纱

canvas　帆布

burnt-out　烂花布

gabardine　华达呢

satin back gabardine　缎背华达呢

single face gabardine　单面华达呢

valitin　凡立丁

palace　派力司

worsted flannel　精纺法兰绒

fancy suiting　花呢

venetian　贡呢

melton　麦尔登

uniform cloth　制服呢

tweed　粗花呢

homespun　钢花呢

harris　海力斯

fleuret　粗服呢

silk voile　真丝绡

silk organdy　素纱

habutai　电力纺

fuchun batiste　富春纺

nylon palace　尼丝纺

polyester pongee　涤丝纺

polyester taffeta　涤塔夫

crepe georgette　乔其绉

crepon georgette　顺纡乔其

crepe de chine　双绉

silk chiffon　真丝雪纺

doupioni pongee　双宫绸

sheer silk satin　薄缎

rayon brocade　人丝织锦缎

silk/rayon mixed tapestry satin　桑/黏交织织锦缎

fabric count　织物经纬密

streak　条斑

barre　横档

loop　线圈

wale　线圈纵行

course　线圈横列

draping property　悬垂性能

tearing strength　撕裂强力

full fashioning　全成形

stitch　针织物组织

tricot　特里科经编针织物

raschel　拉舍尔经编针织物

ravel　脱散

jersey/plain stitch　纬平针组织

rib stitch　罗纹组织

purl stitch　双反面组织

derivative jersey stitch　变化纬平针组织

double rib stitch/interlock stitch　双罗纹组织

tuck stitch　集圈组织

jacquard stitch　提花组织

laying-in stitch　衬垫组织

plating stitch　添纱组织

terry stitch　毛圈组织

plush/pile stitch　长毛绒组织

lace stitch　移圈组织（纱罗组织）

blister stitch　胖花组织

weft laid-in stitch　衬纬组织

chain/pillar stitch　编链组织

tricot stitch　经平组织

satin tricot stitch　经缎组织

double loop stitch　重经组织

cord stitch　三针经平组织（经绒组织）

locknit stitch　经平绒组织

reverse locknit　经绒平组织

atlas locknit　双经缎组织

queen′s cord　变化经平编链组织

wipe　湿巾

dry laid　干法成网

wet laid　湿法成网

polymer laid　聚合物挤压法

spunbonded nonwovens　纺黏非织造布

melt-blown nonwovens　熔喷非织造布

needle punched nonwovens　针刺非织造布

spunlaced nonwovens　水刺非织造布造布

stitch-bonded nonwovens　缝编非织

Translation Practice

1.100　%Polyester Taffeta（Fig.1.33）

2.100　%Cotton Yarn Dyed Stripe Interlock Fabric（Fig.1.34）

（1）Quick Details

（2）Packaging&Delivery

Packaging Details：roll packing inside and plastic bags outside.

Sample：A4 size or half meter can be offered for free.

Sample Time：3～10 days if you want to customize，1 day for our in stock samples.

3.100　%Polyester Burn Out Velvet Fabric Wholesale/Home Textiles（Fig.1.35）

4.2017　Professional Factory In-Stock Denim Fabrics for Lady Jeans（Fig.1.36）

Quick Details

5.Latest/Fashionable Silver Sequin Dot Pattern Fabric（Fig.1.37）

Quick Details

Notes

mesh/net fabric（Fig. 1.38）：网眼织物，有网眼形小孔的织物即网眼布，主要有机织网眼布和针织网眼布。

embroider：绣花、刺绣。

6.100　%Polyester Suede Fabric（Fig.1.39）

Quick Details

Notes

suede fabric：麂皮绒、仿麂皮织物。