Chapter 1　Textile（纺织篇）

Unit 1　Textile Fibers（纺织纤维）

TextiIe Fibers and Their Properties（纺织纤维及其性质）

In general, textile fiber is characterized by having a very small diameter（from a few microns to hundreds of microns）and a length more than 1，000 times its diameter, which usually serves as the raw material of other textile products. There are many kinds of textile fibers.In terms of origin, they can be classified into two categories：natural fibers and chemical fibers（man-made fibers）.Chemi-cal fibers can be sub-classified into regenerated fibers and synthetic fibers.Tab.1.1 is the specific classification of commonly used textile fibers for apparel and home textiles use.

Tab. 1.1　Specific cIassification of commonIy used textiIe fibers for appareI and home textiIes use

In terms of fiber length, they also can be divided into two types：staple/short fiber and filament. Fiber in tens of meters or several kilometers in length can be called filament.For example, the aver-age length of a single continuous raw silk is 800～1，000 m.Fiber very short in length can be called staple/short fiber.Generally, cotton fiber is 10～40 mm and wool fiber is 50～75 mm.All natural fi-bers, except silk, are staple fibers.Silk can be cut into short length to form staple fibers.Chemical/man-made fiber can be made into staple fiber or filament as required, and the chemical/manmade staple fiber can be classified into three types.

（1）Cotton type fiber with a length of 30～40 mm.

（2）Medium length fiber with a length of 40～75 mm.

（3）Wool type fiber with a length of 75～150 mm.

The origin, content, manufacturing, morphology and property of the textile fiber vary greatly and can directly determine the performance of products made from it. Therefore, textile fiber should be of appropri-ate physical, chemical and physiological properties to withstand processing by involved textile machineries and provide desired durability in its end use.These properties include necessary length and fineness；ade-quate strength, flexibility, elasticity and abrasion resistance；proper moisture absorption property, air per-meability and chemical stability；good dyeing property and physiological friendly property.

Vocabulary

refers to　指的是

retain　保持

machineries　机器

involved　参与、涉及

is characterized by　具有……特征

micron　微米

serve as　作为

raw material　原材料

in term of　根据/依据

origin　来源/起源

be classified into　被分为

categories　类别/种类

be divided into　被分为

millimeter　毫米

content　成分

manufacturing　生产/制造

morphology　形态

property　性能/性质

performance　性能

appropriate　合适的

physical　物理的

chemical　化学的

physiological　生理

end use　最终用途

Professional Vocabulary

textile　纺织，纺织品

fiber　纤维

yarn intermediates　纺纱半制品

yarn　纱线

fabric　面料，织物

natural fiber　天然纤维

synthetic fiber　合成纤维

chemical fiber（man-made fiber）化学/人造纤维

regenerated fiber　再生纤维

apparel　服装

home textiles　家用纺织品

cellulosic　纤维素

protein　蛋白质

cotton　棉

colored cotton　彩棉

kapok　木棉

ramie　苎麻

linen/flax　亚麻

hemp　汉麻

kender　罗布麻

mulberry　桑皮

bamboo　竹/竹纤维

wool　绵羊毛

mohair　马海毛

camel hair　骆驼绒

llama　美洲驼毛

cashmere　羊绒

alpaca　羊驼毛

vicuna　驼马绒

down　羽绒

mulberry silk　桑蚕丝

tussah silk　柞蚕丝

rayon/viscose　人造丝/黏胶

Modal　莫代尔

Lyocell/Tencel　莱赛尔/天丝

Richcel　丽赛纤维

acrylic　腈纶

nylon　锦纶（尼龙）

polyester　涤纶

Lycra/Spandex　莱卡/氨纶

polypropylene　丙纶

vinylon　维纶

staple/short fiber　短纤维

filament　长丝

cotton type fiber　棉型纤维

medium length fiber　中长型纤维

wool type fiber　毛型纤维

durability　耐用性

fiber length　纤维长度

fineness　纤维细度

strength　强力

flexibility　柔性

elasticity　弹性

abrasion resistance　耐磨性

moisture absorption　吸湿性

air permeability　透气性

chemical stability　化学稳定性

dyeing property　染色性能

physiological friendly property　生理友好性能

Translation Practice

1.Black Polyester Staple Fiber（Fig.1.1）

（1）Quick Details

（2）Packaging&Delivery

Packaging Details：in pressed packed bales，75 kgs per bale or as customers′requirements.

Delivery Detail：5～7 days after order.

（3）Company Introduction

Nanyang Textile Co.，Ltd. is a joint stock-private enterprise which located in Jiangyin city of Jiangsu province.We produce polyester staple fiber, polyester spun yarn and color master batch.We can develop fibers and yarns with different specifications and colors according to customers′requests.Our company is the unique colored solid fiber manufacturer which gets the lowest anti-dumping duty rate（4.44%）against polyester staple fiber（≥3D）from China to USA market.We are especially good at dope-dyed polyester fiber which is environment-friendly product with clean production and zero discharge.Every year, we collect more than 36，000 mt PET bottle flakes as raw materials from all over the world and provide fiber and yarn to the whole global market.

Notes

spun yarn：细纱、短纤纱，由短纤维纺成的纱，与长丝相对应。

color master batch：色母粒，由高比例的颜料或添加剂与热塑性树脂，经良好分散而成的塑料着色剂。

colored solid fiber：彩色实心纤维。

anti-dumping duty rate：反倾销税率。

dope-dyed：色母染色/原液染色，加入色剂或有色母粒等对纺丝溶液进行染色，以制备有色化学纤维。

PET bottle flakes：聚酯回收瓶片。

mt：metric ton的缩写，公吨。

2.Tencel Fiber Tops（Fig.1.2）

（1）Quick Details

（2）Packaging&Delivery

Packaging Details：export package.

Delivery Detail：within 7 days.

（3）Company Introduction

As a member of Shenbu International Group, Nanjing Shenbu Textile Co.，Ltd. has focused on the production and marketing of textile materials for more than 25 years and it is the most complete and most professional supplier in China market.With the help of domestic and overseas partners, the business has achieved great development.The textile materials have been sold to many countries and regions worldwide with super quality and high reputation.We supply the following Tencel fiber tops.

a. 100%Tencel fiber tops，2.2 D，2.7 D.

b. Tencel blended fiber tops，90%Tencel，10%silk.

c. Tencel blended fiber tops，95%Tencel，5%nylon.

Notes

top：毛条。

blended fiber tops：混纺纤维毛条。

3.Viscose/Rayon Staple Fiber（Fig.1.3）

（1）Quick Details

（2）Packaging&Delivery

Packaging Details：bale packing，252 kgs per bale or 300 kgs per bale.

Delivery Detail：within 10 days.

（3）Company Introduction

We are a very professional supplier of viscose staple fibers（1. 2～5 D，32～102 mm），and vis-cose colored and melange spun yarns（yarn count：17～80s）.We have developed a lot of new col-ored yarn products made from different materials（100%viscose，100%cotton, T/C, T/R，100%Modal，100%Tencel and 100%spun silk）and in different yarn styles（melange yarn, ab yarn, slub yarn, rainbow and color spot yarn）.

Notes

T/C blended yarn：涤/棉混纺纱。

T/R blended yarn：涤/黏混纺纱。

spun silk：绢丝。

melange spun yarn（麻灰纱，Fig.1.4）：使用原料为中化纤与棉，或全为中化纤。在纺纱过程中把黑色纤维（黑色棉、黑色涤纶或黑色黏胶等）与本色纤维经过充分均匀混合后，纺制成具有独特混色效果的色纱。麻灰纱色泽自然和谐、不易褪色，成纱后不需要印染，可直接针织或机织，减少了成本及环境污染，主要应用于生产针织汗布、休闲服。

ab yarn（ab纱，Fig.1.5）：通过赛络纺纱方式制成的复合纱线，可以做到一根纱里包含两种原料不同的纤维或两种不同颜色的纤维。赛络纺的同向同步加捻使纱线具有股线的性质，且毛羽少，抗起毛起球好。与股线织物相比，赛络纺织物手感柔软，比较平滑。赛络纺纱可用于机织物及针织物，也可替代股线用于高支高密织物。

slub yarn（竹节纱，Fig.1.6）：纱线忽细忽粗、有一节叠出的称竹节，竹节纱是花式纱中种类最多的一种。竹节纱有粗细节状竹节纱、疙瘩状竹节纱、短纤维竹节纱、长丝竹节纱等。竹节可以是规则分布也可以是不规则分布。

rainbow yarn（彩虹纱，Fig.1.7）：使用两种以上颜色为主色，以一定次序及段距进行生产的具有特殊外观效果的纱种。

color spot yarn（彩点纱，Fig.1.8）：在纱的表面附着各色彩点子的纱称为彩点纱。可以在深色底纱上附着浅色彩点，也可在浅底纱上附着深色彩点。这种彩点一般用各种短纤维先制成粒子，经染色后在纺纱时加入。