![超级岩友:攀岩损伤预防及提高](https://wfqqreader-1252317822.image.myqcloud.com/cover/581/26051581/b_26051581.jpg)
动态攀爬热身
通过最新的研究表明一种新的攀爬热身方式能够在10分钟内就能达到效果。
什么是静态,弹性和动态拉伸?
静态拉伸是你伸展开后保持一个姿势。通常保持30秒。比如弯腰触摸你的脚趾并保持这个姿势。
弹性拉伸是向下弯曲瞬间活动拉伸,然后弹起,拉伸的作用时间基本上少于一秒。比如反复弯腰触摸你的脚趾,不断的进行拉伸。
动态拉伸是舒缓的进行完全的拉伸。比如弯腰触摸脚趾,然后数到3再站起数到3。
如何在攀爬前拉伸?
静态拉伸并不是很好的选择:研究表明在运动前进行静态拉伸会降低肌肉的力量,导致运动水平下降。也有证据表明这可能会增加受伤几率。
弹性拉伸也不是一个好选择:一些研究表明热身时使用弹性拉伸是有风险的,快速的动作会让肌肉收缩防止受伤,而这会对肌肉造成微小的撕裂。
动态拉伸最好的选择:研究结论也支持使用动态拉伸是最好的热身方法,能够增加血液在肌肉和肌腱中的流动,这种方式能让身体更充分地去进行运动,降低了受伤几率。
动态热身可以分为四个步骤
第一步:在岩壁上
让整个身体产生热量,模拟攀爬时的姿势。
第二步:旋转
做旋转动作,让关节热身。这是经常被忽视的步骤,但是在攀爬中很重要,因为攀爬中会经常用到旋转的动作。
第三步:上半身运动
在单个运动中采用动态拉伸让主动肌和拮抗肌热身起来。
第四步:手腕和指头
随着肌腱滑动让最小的肌肉群也得到热身。
在拉伸过后建议爬两条热身的线路,难度比你日常攀爬的难度低2个等级,也就说你平时爬5.10,那么热身时爬5.8就足够了。
岩壁热身
每个动作重复5次,最后一个姿势保持1-3秒。
外侧对角伸展
开始直立,然后将一只手和腿向外侧延伸,用另一个腿保持平衡。你也可以伸直脚尖模仿攀爬时的动作。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image029.jpg?sign=1739330227-VyGjTx4dts4ecS5ajQ7rnlCyEZSHVE2P-0-27cc4a86c50c9dde08dfa4fb205f5ae4)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image030.jpg?sign=1739330227-F0M2yRQcTrwxy3slzgViCQfDGrM5dFJI-0-d1a51d4d6b9605fa4573385f93ba48d2)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image031.jpg?sign=1739330227-TdseUSxEgPaCb45tTwIqbaERGI6ZheAC-0-eb21d451dbf1308de4ac6a2ca0e14ead)
扭转外侧伸展
开始直立,然后弯曲支撑腿,伸开手臂并同时将同侧脚向手臂的对侧伸展。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image029.jpg?sign=1739330227-VyGjTx4dts4ecS5ajQ7rnlCyEZSHVE2P-0-27cc4a86c50c9dde08dfa4fb205f5ae4)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image032.jpg?sign=1739330227-WOWgTnFEWtsrQxfKmhMXKxVHGN4K0azE-0-7d77db0e54cc8444951275de8da89780)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image033.jpg?sign=1739330227-Js0z1EyDiVR7d79EzneuCQG8HaE9nEJH-0-fa3cedfd96804efe0eae3f2a7a28c39f)
高抬腿拉伸
将一只腿面抬起,双手抱住膝盖,拉向胸部方向,然后放下至地面。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image034.jpg?sign=1739330227-2jI4yYQSgs2peWemzS82RRjigd0B6X7i-0-24df8c09da33787715bc806f9366a653)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image035.jpg?sign=1739330227-knRdTsULZCCk58pHYEix13dPpop2mfL8-0-f788a3c906db5fbc94479299e203a8d7)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image036.jpg?sign=1739330227-yofloDWA5tseidsyAmrq7XOTDuAUBhPy-0-12a7c6853c2622089282433402480470)
蜘蛛侠
脚趾向外并屈膝,将重量放至脚后跟。向前屈身,将肘部放在膝盖内侧。让臀部做顺时针和逆时针旋转运动同时双肘顶住膝盖。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image037.jpg?sign=1739330227-IXWMMMWiGOa0Cm4r9eWeBounW38UqYyA-0-c30881c069a307e16b58a99c73d362dd)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image038.jpg?sign=1739330227-P0IC531EpWSks1Q5MPsAlet1JLeVMu0p-0-a4a3fd19a053c2e75d8cf1658c394c6c)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image039.jpg?sign=1739330227-TfNROuN3Lpdm3xhiTgpxnlZR3r4cSWSf-0-4e69ee3c10745cf55e119641a5946ede)
跪地同侧伸展
面朝前站立。向一侧屈膝保持核心力量。另一侧腿下跪并让手向上伸展。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image040.jpg?sign=1739330227-hUGcsVRe9GPovolpjT9fg3GAHyFKEJbg-0-6c3e47d7a9888cce32e9b463d3773f6c)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image041.jpg?sign=1739330227-iIKQs2CCo2OatvYXZZMBsAKpREiuY7Xe-0-5f4ae1182c33fcfbe5a26b1b7a7b04d6)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image042.jpg?sign=1739330227-n1a2R5wl1vTG4kX8JsOAXhQxhvYUC6wb-0-92342ee833e8cd76348685eb93fc0cea)
扭转
按照下图顺时针和逆时针分别扭转五次。
上肢扭转
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image043.jpg?sign=1739330227-fhxnUHWLGQltKSNieRDazkyiQnw8FEOU-0-86a1a952dc42f97f09c6b987170a2e9a)
肘部扭转
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image044.jpg?sign=1739330227-2MNNfH616DTPVvMDKYal3BnXj7VFgu0M-0-fa9565a90e6ee892a7bb27659cf0555c)
肩部扭转
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image045.jpg?sign=1739330227-JJ7EnQ9xgd4WXnUerrXi64xHepXttQmG-0-c81232ec7b1aebe59923767fa3aa7b25)
手腕扭转
下肢扭转
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image046.jpg?sign=1739330227-9E9C7JdPbcSVfH1TdBqsKUylADePuHX7-0-191e8082ef85fc80174a003fa8cae07c)
臀部扭转
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image047.jpg?sign=1739330227-qWgA8WHBbOsQCly16vZhzbYiamvISAer-0-b594a6f656081faabdf26dc4df913537)
膝关节扭转
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image048.jpg?sign=1739330227-j4RNAAuKmLFcdA39HJhVf6wQzx2e8AfL-0-0d8e26e2dcf6fb91d0ba75a0f00e2809)
脚腕扭转
上肢
每个练习五遍
朝拜拉伸
双手在胸前并拢,向上抬起至头部以上。旋转手掌向上,再将胳膊肘向下朝臀部运动。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image049.jpg?sign=1739330227-LjljB0YrBdU4E0mLiIQw4DNQuODjoNVa-0-809c6dd14d3234204a47cefa4cdc25ff)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image050.jpg?sign=1739330227-L06iND9RFUebLZqg72wJx5lrgYgA8j2H-0-730b876222b74a85b9c8be4b740a78ce)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image051.jpg?sign=1739330227-dE7kJOYK8qofTnmhDg0pfasFlqOf0IBK-0-ad67aafec0a408779901d52c7be1141c)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image052.jpg?sign=1739330227-HuPO5PLjvsmXrKgVt4tmN0zlzFv9VYI3-0-30183a1ef70a0a4e4677f29a7ccccbb5)
手臂双向拉伸
让一只手臂伸向内侧,并用另一只胳膊压住它朝向胸部保持三秒。打开胳膊朝外伸展,并保持三秒钟。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image053.jpg?sign=1739330227-Qo2Q535JQQWr61wQuRdPYFg64mmbyfc5-0-6cdb6d65756531cc702c632431d37b11)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image054.jpg?sign=1739330227-HAEldSsaIz4LYVwBB6xuExkDNo4blCW4-0-9c6b1328f78e2ed88aeaefba53195e33)
肩胛拉伸
胳膊向上弯曲肘部,让双手拍到肩胛,保持3秒钟,伸直胳膊反方向让胳膊向后舒展,保持三秒钟。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image055.jpg?sign=1739330227-r31Nb5vRopOiQnR5Ns0bSuGG3cSketrQ-0-78176623abe91c6c0074292c3b2d8139)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image056.jpg?sign=1739330227-bF35OE8FkAUVrPd6kawPLJRRe8VlNmE6-0-3a5da9569c1f42de082ff90de945c5ec)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image057.jpg?sign=1739330227-VpUmxog6n4LjiAslXbUTd5a3MTIObW5R-0-fdfd38e22cb160ac0366c0ab1a7601f6)
手腕和手指
每组做10遍
手腕肌腱滑动
让手腕保持灵活向前,弯曲肘部。伸直手臂的同时手腕向后活动。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image058.jpg?sign=1739330227-hSivKiXcNAKuBwBu5HsQITmrLdoqzqat-0-ad59e5d68a85c1c0a1eb00844f3e241d)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image059.jpg?sign=1739330227-JRbiRnyDff6raiHtcEPVbQ1RwMPkhYP8-0-7b33398c199aa20991aa84c695f33cec)
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image060.jpg?sign=1739330227-ZMcf0QXUzLLcA0CE0vEe6WFxkGkjpa2H-0-5f94b03d1cbc6eba3143385af8659fda)
手指肌腱滑动
A:保持手掌直立。B:缓慢将手指捏成勾状,让指关节和手腕保持一条直线。C:手指继续攥紧成为拳头。D:让小指节伸直,尽量舒展的完成每一个动作。
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image061.jpg?sign=1739330227-8uX1HQFh4e1zpjoSVl5lFsmL93dINDCU-0-7538bf0a506cf9b7ababcae50364d1b3)
A
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image062.jpg?sign=1739330227-kySVRAfXhln14bfSaOQOSLRGqV6bOlq5-0-797374dbec4f3f22f791ea5613ffb00a)
B
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image063.jpg?sign=1739330227-tnWWNVMq8Qpxo5XQv7yUYw9ZQWz99BWy-0-0e77c74e10d4df53449988eeda3e9355)
C
![](https://epubservercos.yuewen.com/6D3940/14494367405922906/epubprivate/OEBPS/Images/image064.jpg?sign=1739330227-EkbocqoquUCb02qGeVuP22eSd0gyOw2O-0-2231b059963e86d4c4b81548340b52cd)
D